An Up-Close Encounter With Oregon's Out of This World Lava Lands

Off the beaten track perhaps, but the Dee Wright Observatory is an awesome “must see” for road trippers in Oregon.

The "peak finder" sits on the top of the observatory, and points to dozens of mountains and other peaks. Photos by Bonnie King

(SISTERS, Ore.) - There are only a few months of the year that are perfect for venturing to the McKenzie Pass summit in the Cascade Mountains of Oregon. Perfect, that is, because the road is only open from July until the first snow.

Even native Oregonians may be somewhat shocked to find something they have never seen before on this old 1860 wagon route cut through miles upon miles of mountains of lava through the Willamette National Forest. I did.

Meditation comes naturally here

It is like a scene from a sci-fi movie, found somewhere beyond the outer limits. The road winds through the forest of pine trees, and then opens up into the vast 65-square mile seemingly endless lava flow.

The enormity and amount of lava rock before one’s eyes is simply hard to comprehend. This is not the Oregon scenery we are used to.

Route 242 through the McKenzie Pass is a comfortable drive, tracing the trail cut through the lava beds at the summit for the original wagon road. The construction challenges created a need for alternative routes across the Cascades for early travelers and those became the choice of modern highways. Today, Route 242 is part of the McKenzie-Santiam Pass Scenic Byway, and an experience to not be overlooked.

Rounding a bend, a rather stunning sight is the Dee Wright Observatory, a castle-like structure at the summit, completely constructed of lava stone. It was built at the crosshairs of the surrounding mountains, in the midst of a large lava flow. The observatory is situated on route 242, 15 miles west of Sisters, Oregon, a well-known historic town in the Cascade mountains.

Climbing the stairs to the open shelter observation building is an exhilarating feat, with the air hovering at just above freezing, even in July.

Some local lore claims that a husband and wife built the observatory with their bare hands. Not so.

The Dee Wright Observatory

Actually, the observatory was built during the Great Depression by a Civilian Conservation Corps crew (Camp F-23 of Company 927) at Camp Belknap near Clear Lake, finishing in 1935. The effort that must have been exerted to create such a building is hard to imagine. It was named for the construction crew’s foreman who had died the year before it was completed.

Upon entering the open-air building, it is clear to see that the design has a special purpose. The viewing windows positioned around the circular building are referred to as “lava tubes”, each revealing an exceptional view of beautiful Cascade peaks including Mount Washington, Mount Jefferson, the Three Sisters with the Little Brother and Husband. None of these were visible on the day we visited however, with heavy cloud cover and biting-cold misty rain in place of clear skies. Still, there was an almost mystical feeling about. It is a respected place.

Venturing back outside and continuing further up to the rooftop is worth the extra steps. A huge bronze “peak finder” is mounted atop the observatory, an impressive and intriguing tool for newcomers to Oregon’s hidden land of lava in identifying the mountains and peaks that they see on the horizon.

Once back at ground level, a paved trail leads to an interpretive platform, displaying information on the history of the observatory, early travelers and area geology. There is a self-guided tour, the Lava River Interpretive Trail; it is a unique half-mile long hike, winding through lava flows and offering spectacular vistas of the surrounding landscape.

For the rustic types that want to stay a little longer and take it all in, there is a no-fee campsite with well-maintained pit toilets at close by Lava Camp Lake, the departure point for the Matthieu Lakes trail. There is no running water at this site, so bringing in water is mandatory. There are other campsites, trails and a horse camp (horses are allowed on some trails), all good ideas for the rugged-at-heart. And it helps if you appreciate rocks.

The journey to and beyond the Dee Wright Observatory is a fantastical, historical, geographical educational opportunity. Did I mention, weird? Well, it is, actually, which just adds to the intrigue.

I highly encourage you pack a big lunch, fill up your water jugs and take a drive to Oregon’s lava beds. It’s a magical trip you will never forget.

Sources: Official USDAFS Willamette National Forest website; Taylor, Oregon State University, 1981, IN: USGS Circular 838; EugeneCarsey.com

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Bonnie King has been with Salem-News.com since August '04, when she became Publisher. Bonnie has served in a number of positions in the broadcast industry; TV Production Manager at KVWB (Las Vegas WB) and Producer/Director for the TV series "Hot Wheels in Las Vegas", posts as TV Promotion Director for KYMA (NBC), and KFBT (Ind.), Asst. Marketing Director (SUPERSHOPPER MAGAZINE), Director/Co-Host (Coast Entertainment Show), Radio Promotion Director (KBCH/KCRF), and Newspapers In Education/Circulation Sales Manager (STATESMAN JOURNAL NEWSPAPER). Bonnie has a depth of understanding that reaches further than just behind the scenes, and that thoroughness is demonstrated in the perseverance to correctly present each story with the wit and wisdom necessary to compel and captivate viewers. View articles written by Bonnie King